Hey pearl cutters!
I have a question.
What are some proven ways to cut MOP out of fretslots?
I have to go back over and clear out the fretslots after having inlaid this vine.
Thanks!
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:30 am ] |
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Hey pearl cutters!
I have a question. What are some proven ways to cut MOP out of fretslots? I have to go back over and clear out the fretslots after having inlaid this vine. Thanks! |
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| Author: | Josh H [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:02 am ] |
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Lance Is the board bound? I thought Larry Robinson used a regular fret slotting saw on his videos. Either that or it was some kind of back saw. I would have to go check to confirm that. This of course only works when the board is unbound. When I inlay on the board I always cut the inlay into pieces so that it does not extend into the slot. I rout the cavities so they are within about .5mm of the fret slot. The .5 mm of ebony at the edge of the slot is cover by the fret overhang. This way there is ebony at the edge of the slot and not pearl. In the future when the guitar needs a refret you are not in danger of popping the pearl out when you pull the frets. It is a lot more work but it makes sense to me. This is how Grit Laskin does his inlay. I know this is not an option for you on this guitar but it is something to think about for the future. Josh |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:03 am ] |
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I have only made one fretboard vine, but I cut the pearl that crossed the slots with my fret saw and relieved the edges with a triangular file. I can't tell if your fingerboard is bound, but if is that obviously won't work and you may have to resort to the Dremel. But wait for the experts opinion! The vine and the guitar look very nice by the way! <edit> Simultaneous posts... |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:04 am ] |
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Ya,its bound already. |
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| Author: | Josh H [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:09 am ] |
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Hmmm...I don't know what to do if it is bound. Maybe Craig can give you some tips. My thinking is that you will have to use a dremel but I am not sure what kind of bit. Josh |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:29 am ] |
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I cheat and plan my vines to have gaps 1/16" short of the frets as shown in this closeup of the Jap Maple Leaf vine. This means I cut a bunch more pieces but makes me feel better about future refrets. 
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| Author: | L. Presnall [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:39 am ] |
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Lance, a Dremel with a dental burr worked for me...the burr's shaft will follow the fret slot, and tend to wander very little...if your dentist can't help I can send you one or two... Larry |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:48 am ] |
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Lance, a bound fretboard isn't the kiss of death here. You'll just need a shorter saw. I went to a hobby store and bought a little x-acto saw and cut it so it's only about 1 1/2" long. Then very carefully run it in the slot. You need to be pretty careful not to rock it, thus widening the slot. You really need to only get through the pearl. So Larry's idea of the dremel is a good one. I would think that the cut off disks would do pretty well too. They might be easier to keep straight than a burr. One thing that you'll want to do is make sure the "slot" in the pearl is wider than the slot. Otherwise if someone goes to pull a fret, the pearl will lift out. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:53 am ] |
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I inlay them almost right up to the edge of the fret slot, so there's a tiny amount of wood left, but so that the fret also covers the fact it 'ends' before the slot. For larger, fret-spanning inlays (like the nekkid laydee on my last electric, or the roses on the last two vines up by 20/21/22 fret) I have bits that span the slots, others that don't (depending on size, grain match, etc.) and simply used a saw to clean the rest out. I used a combo of dremel and StewMac refret slot cleaning saw on the one I bound prior to inlay, but next time, I'm inlaying, re-sawing slots, then binding. It's just so much simpler that way. |
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| Author: | Dave-SKG [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:06 am ] |
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Lance, Sylvan taught me how to use a dremel in the fret slots and it works real well. Also...something to think about...If you get a bit with a long enough cutting edge you can dull/grind/file the first 1/16th of an inch( or whatever) of the bit end and that part becomes a sort of guide pin allowing the upper part to cut the pearl. I haven't tried it yet but it's on my list. Whatever you decide to do...go slow! Good Luck! |
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| Author: | ATaylor [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:07 am ] |
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Hey Lance, Nice inlay! You have a great eye for style. I've used my dremel w/ the stewmac router attachment for a lot of very close-up work on my fretboards. Never routed away MOP but I'm sure it would work great with a dental burrs. I asked my dentist for some and, in return for some cookies, she gave me 150 of them in all sizes. I'm set for life. I'd send a few your way if you're in need of them. |
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| Author: | clavin [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:55 am ] |
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re-saws carefully after inlaying. I never like the risk involved so I always left it to the luthiers. That said if someone has a great dremmel method I would like to know it. But, it's most likely easier to do it as Grit and others do. Inlay the image to the edge of the line, when re-frets occur it won't touch the inlay. Craig L. |
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| Author: | Dickey [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 9:04 am ] |
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You need a capo for a dremel base. Some sort of guide and set the dremel bit bare minimum. Fortunately you have the width of the fretwire for cover. Good luck whatever you do with this sticky wicket. Nice work so far, don't screw it up. |
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| Author: | TBone62 [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:14 pm ] |
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Not meaning to beg but I have some inlay to do on an old 1886 mandolin and I could use the dental burrs. I would gladly pay you for a couple if you could spare them. I'm also inlaying the fretboard of a guitar later. My email address is available. Thanks. |
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